Sihle Khumalo loves a challenge. He likes to think on his feet and prefers to depart from what can only be called a wish list. The plans for his trip to West Africa were lean on practical detail but grand in concept: 'to visit Five World Heritage Sites listed by UNESCO for their historical and cultural significance'. He had never set foot in Senegal, Mali, Burkina Faso, Benin or Togo, but not to worry, he would inform himself about Francophone Africa as he went along, and conclude in an English speaking country. Had he informed himself more thoroughly beforehand, pondered the implications of having next-to-no French in a part of the world where it is the lingua franca, or what public transport may be like in a country with no infrastructure to speak of, he might have set off less bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. But Sihle is not one to be deterred by setbacks and dead-ends.